29 April, 2012

Piety: Places and Things

Conques, Pilgrimage Destination and burial site of the relics of St. Foi.
Copyright EOP


Trying to walk longish distances daily in the esthetically depressing slurbs of northern Virginia, for diversion I have taken to listening to podcasts while walking. The number and variety of such audio materials presently available is truly awesome, and more than a few of them are of excellent quality. In addition to doing 30-40 minutes of Spanish language review with "Coffee Break Spanish," and its advanced cousin "Show Time Spanish," I became enamored of the "History of Rome" series done by a young man who, sadly for those of us addicted to his telling of the chronicle of the Roman Empire, recently announced he is discontinuing that engrossing history from earliest times to about 500 A.D. His termination has prompted a search for other podcasts, and one I found awhile ago and started listening to in earnest a couple of weeks ago is particularly fascinating for the vast array of topics it covers, "In Our Time With Melvyn Bragg," distributed by the BBC which broadcasts the programme weekly on BBC4. (all of the podcasts noted above are available gratis and can be downloaded on iPods and related devices from the iTunes store).

Today I listened to a broadcast of "In Our Time" from 12 February with the Netherlandish savant Erasmus as the topic. Two professors of church history, one from Cambridge and another from Oxford joined the Warburg Institute librarian and Melvyn Bragg the interviewer for an overview of the life, work and influences of the great humanist. I knew that Erasmus was an opponent of pilgrimage, suggesting that the blessings bought to Christians by visiting distant shrines like Rome or Santiago de Compostela could be as readily found in the local parish church if only the piety of the believer was turned inward. In the introduction, the commentator (I believe it was by Eamon Duffy of Cambridge University) stated that in the medieval era piety was firmly rooted in places and things, a statement that gave me a shock of realization. After struggling with the question of why pilgrimages are made, I realized that is a good explanation of why pilgrimage was so central to Christianity in the late Middle Ages. Places, sites of important events including burials, and things, relics such as the bones of saints interred or brought to those places, were venerated. Only by visiting the places, it was believed, could one be blessed. The decline of pilgrimage, in its turn, was in some measure a consequence of the humanist ideals espoused by Erasmus and forcefully injected into the Reformation churches following Luther. Needless to say it is time to do some deeper investigation of Erasmus, humanism and pilgrimage.

12 April, 2012

Exhibitions


Fuji Seen Through the Mannen Bridge at Fukagawa
Hokusai "36 Views of Mt. Fuji"
Wikimedia Commons

As often happens in Spring, there are numerous special exhibitions at various art, science, and history museums, and for my interests this Spring brings a surfeit. Among the many choices, there are three shows closely related to pilgrimage topics. In Washington, DC a 'Japan Spring' is being celebrated, the centenary of the planting of the cherry trees around the Tidal Basin, and there are must see exhibits in two museums on the Mall for anyone who is a lover of things Japanese or with an interest in Japanese pilgrimages. At the Freer-Sackler there is a display of Hokusai's "36 Views of Mt. Fuji", original strikings of the famous colored woodblock pints of Mt. Fuji, itself a pre-eminent pilgrimage destination, and several of the scenes are along the Kansai pilgrimage route, the oldest and most popular in Japan visiting the 33 temples in the region southwest of Tokyo.

Hokusai's images of Mt. Fuji, including the great wave, probably the best known of all Japanese images, are often seen and reproduced. Not so the scrolls containing images of Japanese nature included in the National Gallery of Art's exhibit of bird and flower paintings by Itō Jakuchū.  These images, owned by the Japanese Imperial Household Agency, are rarely seen but are truly stunning. In a normal year they are on public view for a single day, and pilgrimages are organized to view them on that date. The National Gallery exhibit is only a month long and will close 29 April, so they are worth a rush visit.

The exhibit I would most like to see is at the British Museum in London, Hajj: Journey to the Heart of Islam. Alas, it is unlikely I will be in London between now and Sunday, and in any case all advance tickets are sold out. After reading a review of the exhibit in the most recent issue of the New York Review of Books, I almost booked a trip to London in order to see an extensive collection of materials on the world's largest pilgrimage. I shall have to be content reading the catalogue of the exhibit.

05 April, 2012

Cathedrals, Basilicas and Large Churches

Roman Catholic Cathedral, Orlando, FL 
©eop

Having just returned from Orlando, Fl where I attended the annual Gathering of American Pilgrims on the Camino, a group devoted to travel on, study of and promotion of the Camino de Santiago in Europe,  I decided it was time to do a posting and to try to adhere to a more regular schedule of postings. Today's posting is a follow-up to a topic discussed informally at the meeting.

There is a tendency in the United States, and perhaps elsewhere, to call any large church a cathedral. Indeed, driving between Lake Wales and Tampa on Sunday I saw the Sunshine Cathedral which appeared from the road to be two double-wide trailers attached on their long sides. Just outside Seattle there is a large church in Redmond that calls itself Washington Cathedral. The Crystal Cathedral in Orange County, California has been in the news, for the protestant congregation it served recently went bankrupt, and the building, designed by a famous architect and well-known from television broadcasts of its holiday entertainments, has been sold to the local Roman Catholic diocese. That sale may render the Crystal Cathedral an actual cathedral in a rigorous and traditional usage of the term, for the diocese may choose to relocate the seat of its bishop to the building. Until now, however,  the name Crystal Cathedral has simply meant a large protestant church building serving a single congregation and not the administrative center of a diocese.

It is useful to look a little further at the usage of the term cathedral and a related kind of church, the basilica.

1. Cathedrals. In the Roman Catholic tradition, and in those protestant denominations whose governance traditions are episcopal, including the Anglican (in the US the Episcopal) and the northern European Lutheran churches, a cathedral is the seat of the bishop or archbishop responsible for a diocese and is a center of church governance. The term cathedral derives from the latin cathedra or chair. An actual chair for the bishop or archbishop near the altar is almost always a feature, and from that chair important declarations about church matters are issued, ex cathedra. Generally there is a single church building in a diocese serving as a cathedral, though there are a few notable exceptions like the diocese of Calahorra in Spain (La Rioja) where the co-cathedrals of Calahorra, Logroño and Santo Domingo de la Calzada (the latter two familiar to pilgrims on the Camino de Santiago) share the task. The cathedral may not be a large or impressive building, indeed the Roman Catholic cathedral in Orlando shown above and the Anglican cathedral in Vancouver, BC are fairly modest buildings, smaller than some of the parish churches in their respective dioceses.

In some cases older buildings no longer serving as centers of church governance retain the name cathedral, though there are only a handful of examples. A few older cathedral buildings have been abandoned in favor of newer ones, but tradition keeps the name cathedral attached to the antique structure. In parts of Europe where Roman Catholicism was replaced by Calvinism during the Reformation, including Scotland and parts of Switzerland, some church buildings once Roman Catholic cathedrals no longer have a church governance function in that congregationalist tradition, but the churches retain the name cathedral.

The term, cathedral, in a rigorous usage, is derived from the role of the building in church governance. It has no architectural meaning, for any style or size of building can serve as a cathedral.

2. Basilicas. Perhaps the most famous church in Christianity, St. Peter's in Rome is not a cathedral, but it is a basilica. The cathedral of Rome, where the Pope, who is also the bishop of Rome, has his seat, is St. John in Lateran (San Giovanni Laterano) which in addition to being a cathedral is also a papal basilica. In other words a church can be both a cathedral and basilica, though many are one but not the other. Originally a basilica was a type of Roman building, rectangular in ground plan, used for pre-Christian religious and civic purposes. As the Roman Empire was converted to Christianity, a number of those buildings became churches. In Rome itself and in some other cities of the empire a few of those ancient basilicas still exist and retain a religious function almost 2,000 years on. A pilgrim or tourist in Rome can visit several ancient churches that are architecturally basilicas. In addition some more modern churches, for example San Paulo fuori la Mura in Rome, said to house the remains of St. Paul, are designed in the Roman style of basilicas.

Over history, the original definition of the term basilica based on architecture has been expanded as the Roman Catholic tradition has granted the name basilica to churches with other ground plans. Church buildings built on a cruciform ground plan introduced later in the evolution of Christianity and elaborated first in the Romanesque and later in the Gothic styles of architecture are not, sense strictu, basilicas for they deviate from the Roman rectangularity. However at some stage the term basilica came to be applied to large and important churches regardless of architecture, often in dioceses where there was also a cathedral. Most basilicas were centers of intense devotion, many housing relics, and pilgrimage destinations.

A few basilicas are are also cathedrals or co-cathedrals, as for example the basilica of St. Mary in Minnesota. Others, for example the shrine church at Lourdes or the Shrine of the Immaculate Conception in Washington, DC, are simply basilicas with no governance function for their local diocese. Finally, some are Papal Basilicas with a  special altar where no mass may be conducted without permission of the Pope. In such cases the architectural design is of little relevance, but most basilicas are large churches.

The Eastern Orthodox traditions have a slightly different set of definitions for cathedral, though a church governance function remains paramount. The term basilica, on the other hand, has not gone beyond the Roman Catholic tradition as far as I can determine. Various Protestant groups, especially those of recent vintage like the group that established the Washington Cathedral near Seattle or the Crystal Cathedral, have rather carelessly used the term cathedral to simply mean a large church building serving a single congregation. For those wishing more information, the Wikipedia entries on the various topics of cathedral, basilica and church governance are useful.

Finally, in a discussion of Cathedral of St. James, in Seattle, I said I was not aware of any other cathedral in the United States named for and dedicated to Santiago (St. James). The next day driving through downtown Orlando, I discovered our meeting was held in a diocese whose cathedral is named for the patron Saint of Spain and to whose shrine in Galicia pilgrims on the Camino de Santiago travel!