06 December, 2010

Pilgrims to Shia Shrines in Iraq Killed

Al-Askiriya Mosque as rebuilt, Samara, Iraq


Iraq contains some of the most important shrines for the Shia sect of Islam including those at Karbala where in past years a number of pilgrims have been killed. Yesterday's New York Times reported on a series of killings of pilgrims, including persons coming from predominantly Shiite Iran to visit the sacred sites in Iraq. The paper reports seven blasts at various sites around Baghdad killing at least 16 people and injuring many more. The Shia pilgrimage sites in Iraq were off-limits for pilgrims from Iran for many years. While the government of Iraq now allows Iranians to visit, friction between Sunni and Shia in Iraq has resulted in periodic, violent and deadly attacks against Shia pilgrims at and en-route to or from the shrines. Both Iraqi and non-Iraqi pilgrims have been targets of Shia bombs over the past eight years.

Pilgrims have been targets of terrorists in Iraq, but so also have been the pilgrimage sites themselves. In 2006 a terrorist bomb destroyed the golden dome of the al-Askari mosque at Samarra, about 125 km from Baghdad, and much of the mosque was left in ruins, Al-Askari and its golden domed mosque is one of the most important Shia pilgrimage sites, behind only Karbala and Najaf in significance. The next year the two golden minarets and a clock tower on the site were also destroyed by terrorist bombs. While none of the buildings were very old, they were covered in gold leaf and contained the remains of two of the most revered early imams of Shia Islam. The mosque and minarets have been rebuilt, and pilgrims have resumed visiting the sacred site. Among some Sunni Muslims in Iraq the pilgrimage site at al-Askari is also revered.



The Shi'ite Askariya shrine in Samarra, Iraq, June 23, 2003. The sacred mosque was destroyed February 22, 2006. (Mandi Wright/Detroit Free Press/KRT)

Read more: http://www.mcclatchydc.com/2009/03/06/63436/iraqi-pilgrims-visit-samarras.html#ixzz17LjRA6Tj

28 November, 2010

A New Session of the Pilgrimage Course, ALRI Spring 2011


St. James Major (Santiago), 16th Century, Alabaster 
Victoria & Albert Museum, London
©eop
The Pilgrimage course, one I greatly enjoy leading, is to be offered at ALRI again in the Spring 2011 term, and I am looking forward to it. As always when a course it repeated, it is a chance to do some additional research and to flesh out ideas and topics covered in the past. 

I have been doing some reading about pilgrimages in exotic places including the Shikoku pilgrimage, about 1,300 kms on the island of that name in Japan. The husband of a former student was so kind as to give me a copy of a book I had scan read a long time ago, Japanese Pilgrimage by Oliver Statler (1983. New York: Morrow. ISBN 0688018904). I plan to do enough reading about that fascinating Buddhist trek to comment more intelligently on it in the Spring, having just shown a map and said the route existed the last time I taught the course. I also plan to spend a little time looking further into the Qoyllurití pilgrimage in Peru. If time allows, I would also like to do a little work on pilgrimages in Africa, a part of the world largely ignored in the past editions of the course due to my ignorance.

The year 2010 was a holy year for Santiago de Compostela, and I had hoped to walk at least a part of one of the pilgrimage routes. An ankle injury in last winter's ice and snow made that impossible, but I do hope to be in shape to walk some section of one of the Camino routes this coming autumn. As a consequence I have been doing some reading about routes other than the popular Camino Frances from the Pyrenees to Santiago. Having walked that 800 kms twice, this next time I am considering the possibility of the short Camino Portuguese from Lisboa or perhaps only from Oporto as well as the rugged Camino del Norte (also called the Camino Primitivo) and the spectacular Camino de la Plata from Sevilla via Extremadura through Salamanca and onward to Santiago. The last is the most attractive but also by far the longest (2 months about) and most difficult option.  

23 November, 2010

Hajj 1431 ( November 2010 in the Western Calendar)

Grand Mosque, Mecca 2010 Hajj

The 2010 Hajj saw a peak of nearly 3 million pilgrims in Medinah and Mecca over the period 14-18 November, and it passed without major problems. Torrential rainstorms near the end of the Hajj made for slippery conditions, but otherwise the weather was cooperative, and there were no problems of terrorism, no stampedes or other events which have marred pilgrimages in past years.

Meanwhile the Saudi government is remaking Mecca with the eventual goal of allowing 5 times as many pilgrims to make the Hajj annually. Much redevelopment of the core of the city has already occurred, but it mostly provides luxury accommodations for the rich. Poorer pilgrims making the required visit to the sacred city have not fared so well. The Pakistani government has arrested the official in the Ministry of Religious Affairs responsible for Hajj and there has been a call for the minister to step down after poor pilgrims were badly housed in Mecca. The charge is misappropriation of funds after housing in the Saudi city was unfinished and pilgrims stayed in places without adequate water and sanitation and no electricity. At nearly $3000 each charged by the Pakistani government for transportation and housing, poorer Pakistanis must save over many years to pay the cost of the pilgrimage.

An American company arranging for visas to Saudi Arabia for United States Muslims returned passports somewhat late, and those passports were, in turn, delayed by the customs service. The delay caused a number of pilgrims from northern Virginia to miss scheduled flights. The customs service was forced to pay for replacement flights in order to get those pilgrims to the international airport at Medinah on time to make Hajj. The Saudi goverment has been concerned with firms not meeting contractual obligations when providing services for pilgrims.

05 September, 2010

St James in London



Statue of Peregrino atop Clock
St. James Garlickhythe, City of London
© EOP

London
5 September 2010


It has been a little difficult to find time to write a blog while on holiday here, but I have found a few things worthy of mention. As all know, London is a city rich in museums and especially rich in collections relating to the Middle Ages. There are worthwhile images of St. James in the medieval collections of the Victoria & Albert and in the National Gallery. A fascinating little gem is the small Wren Church of St. James Garlickhythe. It is a little difficult to locate and even more difficult to access since one of its walls faces on a busy street without a pedestrian footpath. The short walk to the Church is well worthwhile, for the still active parish church includes all kinds of St. James symbols as part of its decoration.

18 August, 2010

Bomb Threat or Hoax at Lourdes

Basilica of Lourdes, Hautes-Pyrénées, France

Assumption day, a very popular time for pilgrims to visit the shrine at Lourdes, was marred by the threat of bombs at the sanctuary. About 30,000 pilgrims were forced to evacuate the shrine and mill about for several hours until the police determined there were no bombs. BBC News Europe has a good report.

The major Christian pilgrimage sites have not had actual acts of terrorism or massive casualties caused by terrorists and bombs, but as with all places where large numbers of people congregate, national authorities fret constantly about the possibility. Security was a major concern during the recent celebrations at Santiago de Compostela, and some pilgrims complained of the massive presence of police, the Guardia Civil and the military over the St. James Day weekend in July. French authorities have been on high alert during the summer pilgrimage season at Lourdes and quickly responded with evacuation orders when the bomb threat, apparently a hoax, was received. The horrors which have accompanied pilgrimages to the Shia Islamic holy city of Karbala in Iraq are not far from the minds of security planners. In a very real way the terrorists have won a major battle, scaring all and sundry even when the threat is not real.

05 August, 2010

Notes on Pilgrimages to Santiago and Karbala


Chemin St, Jacques Paraphernalia, Le Puy-en-Velay, France 2005
©EOP


Years when St. James Day is a Sunday are designated Holy Years, and I had planned to write a few lines on Sunday 25 July, St. James Day. Events precluded the posting, so I though I would post a few notes on a hideously hot afternoon waiting for plumbers to install a new water heater.The number of pilgrims walking at least the last 200 km to Santiago in 2010 has greatly escalated, as it always does on Holy Years. That growth in numbers is in part a reflection of the fact that the next Holy Year is 11 years away. At Santiago de Compostela and along the routes (Camino, Chemin, Weg etc.) leading toward it the entire year is important, with many special events. In Santiago itself, the Holy Door of the Cathedral is open, the King of Spain has visited at least twice, and the Pope is planning a visit in November. I had hoped to do at least a bit of the pilgrimage this year, perhaps along one of the less popular routes, but an ankle injury in February made that impossible.

[An unrelated reason for many more pilgrims in 2010 may be the Spanish team's triumph in the football World Cup in South Africa and the victory of a Spaniard in bicycling's Tour de France. Some football-crazed Spaniards (and perhaps some cycling crazed ones as well) promised to make the pilgrimage to the shrine of Spain's patron if their team was successful.]

Pilgrims to Santiago are rarely, if ever, victims of political violence even in the restive Basque region where most walk for a week or more on their way west. Sadly that is not the case for pilgrims to the Shia Islam shrines in Karbala, Iraq.
Shrines in Karbala, Iraq

"Eight people killed as violence against Shiite pilgrims continues in Iraq"
By Leila Fadel
Washington Post Foreign Service
Friday, July 9, 2010; A09
"BAGHDAD -- At least seven people were killed in bombings targeting Shiite pilgrims in the Iraqi capital Thursday, and a pilgrim returning home on foot was shot dead outside the northern city of Kirkuk, on the third day of deadly violence by militants apparently intent on stoking sectarian tensions amid a months-long political stalemate."

The article in the right-wing newspaper went on to describe the violence and how it has become an annual event as millions of Shia Muslims from Iraq but also from neighboring countries, particularly Iran where Shia Islam is the dominant cult, make the trek to Karbala and the tomb of Imam Hussayn. Under Saddam, the pilgrimage was curtailed and even prohibited, but subsequent to the Cheney-Bush military adventure for benefit of the oil cartel, pilgrims have returned in great numbers to the purported tomb of Mohammed's son-in-law, a founding figure of the Shiite cult. In 2009 PBS released a documentary film, made of the 2006 pilgrimage, to the shrine. [I have not as yet viewed the film but expect to before the next time I teach the pilgrimage course]. Though it is cold comfort to those mourning loved ones or suffering personal injuries, the violence in 2010, horrible as it was, was far less than that of earlier years.

02 July, 2010

Santiago in Philadelphia


Fairmount Waterworks, Philadelphia Museum in back, Philadelphia, PA, 1998
© EOP

Earlier this week I spent several days in Philadelphia, a city well-endowed with things to see and do, W. C. Fields notwithstanding. In the midst of a heatwave, the Philadelphia Museum was a cool respite from the outdoors. The large exhibit of medieval materials, most from France but with a few representative pieces from elsewhere in Europe, was new to me and well worth the visit.Included in the medieval collection is a Romanesque arched Portal from the Abbey Church of Saint-Laurent, France a 12th century building near Cosne-Cours-sur-Loire, a pilgrimage church on the Chemin St.Jacques. It is one of many churches and other facilities along the Chemin influenced by the Benedictines of Cluny. The arched doorway leads to a small cloister with a Spanish fountain from Monastery of Saint-Michel-de-Cuxa in Catalunya, an exhibit that brings back many memories of France and Spain and of the Chemin/Camino!


Tickets to view the Barnes Collection in Merion were a primary reason for the trip to Philadelphia. The collection is due to be moved to a site in central Philadelphia in a couple of years, and the current year is the last to visit the peculiar museum in its suburban splendor. Most people go to see the awe inspiring collection of French art from the impressionists through the 20th century. Scattered among the gems of that part of the collection are a number of pieces of other provenance, including some fine sculptures and paintings from Renaissance Europe. Spread in several galleries are a third life size statute of St. Roch, a painting of St. James the major in a guise largely unrecognizable to those of us familiar with Santiago Peregrino (pilgrim accouterments including staff, hat and scallop shell)  and Santiago Matamoros astride a horse, and a painting of St. Sebastian with Santiago Peregrino. I foolishly did not carry a notebook, and the museum prohibits photographs and does not offer reproductions in its shop. Any follower of Santiago able to visit the museum is advised to look for the statue near the head of the stairs on the second floor and the paintings in the galleries east of the main room on the first floor.

24 May, 2010

Final comments on Ladino Music

Normally I do not respond to comments posted on websites to which I contribute unless they raise interesting questions or discussion topics. All too often comments are posted by self-appointed experts and various other cranks and are best left in obscurity. Occasionally a comment is so out of place, so egregiously offensive, so arrogant and ignorant, that it demands a rebuttal. Such is the case with a comment made by one Ms. Judith Cohen, a contributor to the website Klezmershack. I have now had some time to do some work on the issue and feel a rebuttal is appropriate.

Ms. Cohen:
Since you have taken it upon yourself to comment on my “research,” I shall take this opportunity to reciprocate and comment on yours. It is a universally accepted research protocol to read an item with some care before publishing a criticism of it. That is hardly an onerous task when commenting on a blog posting of far less than 1,000 words. The comment you posted shows that you did not read, or at least did not understand, the heading  A BLOG INTENDED FOR PARTICIPANTS IN THE COURSE ON PILGRIMAGE OFFERED AT ALRI IN AUTUMN 2009. THE BLOG PRESENTS MATERIALS GERMANE TO THE COURSE INCLUDING SESSION OUTLINES, ILLUSTRATIVE MATTER,AND OTHER MATERIALS ENROLEES MIGHT FIND OF INTEREST” a clear statement that the blog is solely written for participants enrolled in a specific course on a specific topic. Neither have you read nor understood the initial sentence of the brief posting you so arrogantly dismiss. In that paragraph I state ‘While it is a bit remote from the specific topic of pilgrimage, in our meeting on Tuesday a question was asked about Ladino music, and I was intrigued enough to do a little research.” That statement should amply indicate to any one of normal intelligence that 1) I am not claiming to be an expert, indeed that I am a novice, an interested outsider, seeking additional information about a largely unfamiliar subject and 2) the posting is based on the research that can be done in a small amount of time.

Ladino music is remote from the course I am teaching and equally remote from my personal interests. The brief blog posting was for the benefit of students in the course (read the heading above!) who expressed an interest in the subject of Ladino music. It was neither intended as a general guide to the subject for all who might stumble upon it nor as an incitement for some self-appointed expert to expel venom. The student’s questions sparked in me a personal interest and a desire to learn a little more about Ladino music and to share my findings with members of the class I am leading. As an instructor I try to bring to the attention of my students those new and interesting ideas and topics I have encountered, especially when a student raises a question or otherwise expresses an interest in a topic. The informality of a blog eases that task and allows for the exploration of new fields and ideas outside the formal constraints of the classroom.

Contempt for novices wishing to learn a bit more about a subject is frequently expressed by “experts,” almost always either those with significant lacunae in their own knowledge or those who have a strong commitment to promoting unimportant trivialities, topics and ideas dismissed by serious scholars. The contempt arises, I suspect, out of a fear the outsider may discover the emperor indeed has no clothes. I have always found true scholars, those with genuine expertise on a topic and a passion for it, to be genial hosts when novices wish to explore.

I did not make and would never have made the patently absurd claim that Ladino music is solely that developed in Iberia during the middle ages. As anyone who has studied European culture and history or musicology is well aware, no western musical genre surviving more than a few years is static, no matter how insignificant it may be to the evolution of music or of culture overall. Even those dying genres leading to cultural dead ends degenerate enroute to their demise. The Ladino genre is more than a half-millennium old and most certainly has evolved, for better or for worse. I merely suggested its origin was in medieval Iberia, and a good place to begin an examination is to listen to recordings of that early music made by first-rate musicians. I am sure any respectable musicologist would consider listening to representative examples of its early music as a reasonable, if not the ideal, starting point for a more thorough investigation of a genre.
Shortly after beginning a search for materials on Ladino music on various websites and in several library catalogues (including, among others, the Library of Congress, Johns Hopkins University, and George Mason University’s library which is accessible to my students) I discovered, as any competent scholar doing serious research on the topic would soon discover, that Sephardic (or Sefardic) is the usual catalogue term pointing to sources of early Ladino music. At the same time that term, also used in catalogues of recordings for sale, points to more recent expressions. For an example, search the term “Ladino music” on Wikipedia, of which more below.  

If you wish to learn something about the subject of Ladino music, you would profit from a Google or Bing internet search and a search on one or more of the many university and research library catalogues available online. Entering “Ladino Music” as a search term, you will find most items linked to that term, including the ones on the first few results pages, go directly to Sephardic (various spellings) topics and primarily discuss the music of the 1492 Diaspora and its medieval precursors. In comparison, those sources give relatively few references on the evolution of the music since those early years, suggesting to an interested outsider that much of the subsequent development was inconsequential, perhaps even a trail leading to a cultural dead end. Library research using printed materials further indicated that most scholars devote their efforts to the early years. My motivation, in retrospect clearly misguided,  for including a reference to Klezmershack’s page on the topic was its inclusion of more recent examples of the genre. Very few of the other web sites I encountered provided that information, suggesting yet again that post Diaspora Ladino music is little more than a minor component of a moribund and dying folk culture, albeit one that persisted for a long time.

The statement about Savall and company is absurd; a suggestion to me that one who writes such a comment either knows very little about music and performance practice or else has a personal axe to grind. Eminent musicologists, experts in medieval, renaissance and baroque music, consider the performance practices of Savall and his collaborators to be excellent resulting in the closest possible approximations of the manner in which the music was originally performed given present day knowledge and materials. It is beyond belief that Savall and his collaborators would deviate from their rigorous adherence to authentic performance for just one type of music.

Given my reservations, all of them deriving from your comment, I have edited my original posting to withdraw the recommendation of Klezmershack and the page on Ladino music it includes. I do not have the time, the need or the interest to further evaluate that site. A careful review might prove it to be acceptable, but my reservations about its quality and scholarship, if indeed there was any, mean I cannot recommend it to my students. In its place I am inserting a link to the Wikipedia entry found when searching for “Ladino music,” a search which immediately links one to the online encyclopedia’s posting on Sefardic music. Despite the well-known issues with Wikipedia, I find it likely to be a more credible source of information on the topic than is Klezmershack.

Having already devoted too much time to finding and reading materials on Ladino music and listening to some recordings of more recent examples of the genre, I am leaving the topic, never to return. After considerable research effort and review of a substantial body of material, I find Ladino music has no relevance to my interests in music or to the development of western European or more general world culture. If a future student should ask about it, I will reply “Ladino music existed. Look it up in Wikipedia.” Aside from the wonderful performances of authentic early exemplars by Savall and his collaborators (and those of several other first-rate early music groups), my foray into learning more about Ladino music has led to the inescapable conclusions that post Diaspora Ladino music is unpleasant to listen to, at least for ears tuned to European and Asian music; it is of little consequence in the overall evolution of human cultures; and its only strong interest is to pseudo-scholars fixated on antiquarian trivia and to those obsessed with an inconsequential element of a marginal folk culture facing imminent extinction. Life is too short to pursue information about cultural dead ends and antiquarian trivialities. There are countless musical topics of greater interest and importance, perhaps early Bavarian bagpipe music or Bronze Age pan pipes in Greece. At least those genres did contribute to ongoing forms of world culture.

E. O. Pederson, Ph.D.

20 January, 2010

Yet More on Pilgrimage in Peru

Cusco, Peru
20 January 2010

A couple of posts back I wrote about a pilgrimage to a high elevation glacier in the Andes  of Peru to gather snow. Quite by coincidence, a book I brought with me to read while visiting various sites in and near Cusco, including Manchu Picchu, contains a personal story of participation in the arduous and difficult to understand (for those of us mostly familiar with European traditions) pilgrimage.

The book is Hugh Tomson, 2006. A Sacred Landscape: The Search for Ancient Peru. Woodstock and New York: The Overlook Press. ISBN 13-978-1-59020-058-2, and the description of the pilgrimage is a chapter A Parliament of Bears: Qoyllurit´i, pp. 232-271.

Qoyllurití (your guess at pronunciation is as good as mine) is celebrated every year after Trinity Sunday in June and entails a climb, at rates far faster than high altitude medicine would recommend, to a glacier over 6,000 m high about 100 km from Cusco. Thousands participate every year in rituals that combine Roman Catholic elements, and the pilgrimage is sanctioned by the church, with ones clearly very much older. If I should teach another course on pilgrimage, I most certainly will include discussion of this one. Meanwhile I recommend the Tomson book both for the chapter and more generally for its overview of archaeological and anthropological finds in Peru.

18 January, 2010

Santiago in Peru

Cusco, Peru
18 January 2010

Once again I am writing for an undefined audience, but I have been pleased to discover that both pilgrimages and my favorite saint Santiago (St. James the major) are well represented in Peru. Santiago is the patron saint of the city and region of Cusco. A statue of Santiago dominates one of the three chapels in the city´s cathedral, though in a guise I do not favor ¨Santiago Mataindios¨ a variant of the more common Santiago Matamoros.

Yesterday on a visit to the spectacular Inca site at Ollantaytambo, we discovered that the parsh church there is named for Santiago as well. When I return to the US and have a little time for investigation of the topic, I shall have more intelligent (I hope) commentary to make on the topics of pilgrimages in Peru and the role of Santiago in Peru.

14 January, 2010

Pilgrimages in Peru

Cusco, Peru
14 January 2010

I am not certain who I am writing this for as our class has ended, but having spent a couple of weeks in Peru, I have discovered yet another set of fascinating pilgrimages, Christian and non-Christian (Semi-Christian?). One, centered on dates near my birthday as it happens, involves sending pilgrims, inadequately clothed and equipped, to elevations above 6,000 meters to get sacks of snow which are then delivered to the Plaza de Armas here in Cusco. Others involve more traditional and less arduous and dangerous treks. When I return to ole virginny I must do some research and post some pictures!