07 October, 2011

Arca (O Pino)--Turgrinos

Almost at the end of a dry Camino, not a drop of rain in 31 days. The heat in the first two weeks was difficult, but rain is worse so all who have been on my schedule should be thankful. Today was a comfortable day for walking, and tomorrow promises to be a fine day for the final 20 km into Santiago.

This walk I have been watching turgrinos. The turgrino phenomenon is both fascinating and annoying. Prior to starting, I mostly thought of those who walk a week ot two, using the albergues as inexpensive housing while vacationing. There are many who do so east of Burgos, but not many on the meseta. Having no intention of walking the whole Camino, even in installments as many Europeans do, they crowd the trail and use albergue beds, creating inconvenuences for those intending to go the distance as pilgrims.

In the final 100 km there is a quite different kind of turgrino. These "pilgrims" come in herds off tour busses. The bus driver deposits them at a bar with instructiona to get a sello. They then walk three to five easy km to another bar where they get a second sello in their credencials, climb back on the bus and are carried to a private albergue or hostal for the night. They walk perhaps 20 km but have a credencial allowing them to "earn" a Compostela. Yesterday I counted six such groups, including one where all of the turgrinos wore yellow scaeves.

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