12 January, 2019

Concerto, Piazza de Minerva, Roma, 2019

Rome, 12 January 2019

I may be abandoning tumblr as none of my submitted posts have been published. I think this one did show up, but the others have disappeared into the ether.

The scene is a kind of pilgrimage destination. On the right margin is the Pantheon, one of the world’s greatest buildings, while not seen behind the photographer is the only major church in Rome in the gothic style, decorated with a Michaelangelo sculpture of the risen Christ and the burial place of St. Catherine of Siena, the patroness of Italy. Oh yes, it also has some works by painters including Filipino Lippi and is the burial place of Fra Angelico and several popes. 



07 January, 2019

Pilgrimages to Evil Sites


Eingangstunnel zu Aufzügen, Khelsteinhaus, Berchtesgaden, Bayern, 1991.
©EOP
7 January 2019
The large and grandiose entrance tunnel and elevators inside look as if they might lead to some immense and secret underground military facility (think Colorado Springs NORAD headquarters). Instead one steps off the large elevators at a gemütliches Bergchalet, a kind of lodge one might have expected at a posh Alpine ski resort in the 1930s. The building and the operatically dramatic road and elevator entrance to it were built by enthusiastic Nazis as a gift to Adolph Hitler. In English-language publications Kehlsteinhaus is often called “Hitler’s Eagles Nest,” though Hitler himself apparently did not like it and only used it a few times. It is now a major tourist attraction in the Obersalzberg region. Sadly, some of those tourists may be "making a pilgrimage" to this site not for its stunning view of the Alps or as a historical curiosity but rather to honor its Nazi connections. In all too much of the world, including Germany and the United States, the racist ideology which was the foundation of Nazism remains a formidable and execrable element of politics and popular culture.

06 January, 2019

Epiphany


Peinture murale de la crèche, L'isle sur la Sorgue, Vaucluse, 2016
©EOP

Today is the traditional end of the holiday season in Southern Europe and celebrates the arrival of the three kings at the cradle. This wall mural of the nativity in the Provençal market town of L'isle-sur-la-Sorgue does not include the three kings (trois rois), but I rather like it. It seems an appropriate thing to post on Epiphany,
Forthcoming Trip


Galleria di sculture, Musei Capitolini, Roma, 2009
©EOP

6 January 2019

I have to admit ignorance of the names or the sculptors of most of these pieces, but the gallery illustrates some of the incomparable richness of Rome. The Capitoline Museums, atop what may be the most historically important piece of real estate in the Eternal City, are an incredible collection of works from pre-historic times onward. I am looking forward to a visit, maybe more than one, when I am in Rome beginning a few days from now.

2018 was not a good year. While I remain free from major diseases and medical problems, not so my wife who spent 6 weeks out of the first 6 months in hospital. She has recovered somewhat, enough to take a cruise from Bali to Sydney with her sister at the end of the year. For me, 2018 was a year totally without travel. I spent every night from early November 2017 up to last night in the same bed, and our car has put on less than 10,000 km, almost entirely accumulated by travel to the hospital and medical facilities, to visit nearby relatives and friends, and for necessary errands. That makes my forthcoming trip to Rome especially exciting.

I have rented an apartment for almost a month and will have the leisure to see all kinds of things either missed or hurriedly visited on past trips. I plan a couple of overnight excursions, one to south of Naples to see the Greek-era ruins at Paestum and perhaps to visit Pompeii again. The second excursion is yet to be determined, but the city of Ravenna seems to be calling loudest. As with Rome itself, Italy, the large country in Western Europe I know least well, has a very long list of places worth seeing, and except for the headlines (Milan, Venice, Florence) I have not seen them. I plan also to go to Tivoli, to Ostia, and to one or another of the Etruscan sites a day trip out of the Italian Capital. 

Stay tuned for future posts on the great pilgrimage center of Rome.

05 January, 2019


Abandoning Tumblr?

Forum Romanum, 2009
©EOP

5 January 2019


After 7 years, I am returning to this blog, expanding its purview a little, and making new posts. For a number of years I had been using Tumblr, but its recent change of policy and apparently arbitrary censorship of posts suggested a search for a new place to post my photos and comments. While the blog I have maintained there, Randomness, is mostly my pictures of buildings, streetscapes, landscapes, architectural elements and works of art, with few photographs of people and none which would fit even the most prudish defitions of pornography, my photos of ancient monuments, statues from classical antiquity and even landscapes have been marked as violating standards. Disgusted, I am considering joining a number of those whose posts I follow and abandoning Tumblr. I have not firmly decided to do so, but in the meantime I am reactivating this blog in order to post my photos and commentary.

Initally this blog was started as a supplement for a course I was teaching on the subject of pilgrimage. That was followed by some postings about pilgrimage to Santiago de Compostela in Spain and my walks on several of those routes. I am now preparing to spend almost a month in Rome (along with Santiago de Compostela and Jerusalem one of the three great pilgrimage destinations of the Middle Ages). Over the next few weeks, Roman sites and topics will dominate. More to come.

04 July, 2012

Codex Calixtinus Recovered!

Santiago (St. James), doorway frame, Collegio Fonseca, Santiago de Compostela
©EOP 2012

After a long dry spell, over the next few weeks I hope to post several things, none of which are ready as yet. I am posting today because of excellent news received this morning, the Codex Calixtinus stolen from the Cathedral archive in Santiago de Compostela has been located and four persons, including an electrician who is an employee of the cathedral, have been arrested in a suburb of the city in relation to the theft. La Voz de Galicia the major local newspaper has a good overview of the recovery as does El Pais.

03 May, 2012

Hospitalero!

Camino Francés descending into Santo Domingo de la Calzada, La Rioja
©eop

Thinking about repaying a little of my debt to those who make walking the Camino de Santiago feasible and enjoyable, I had considered for several years the possibility of being a volunteer hospitalero in one of the albergues which offer inexpensive accommodation to peregrinos. In March I took the training course for potential hospitaleros offered by American Pilgrims on the Camino at its annual gathering, this year in Winter Park, Florida. I applied for a 2 week assignment (the usual term) shortly thereafter, and a few days ago I received an assignment: I shall be serving at the "Casa del Santo" Albergue, operated by the Cofradía del Santo in the town of Santo Domingo de la Calzada (St. Dominic of the Causeway, about whom I shall have something to say in future postings: he was sainted following a life of serving pilgrims) in La Rioja. My hospitalero term extends from 16 May to 31 May.

After hospitalero duties, I plan to walk for a bit more than a week on one of the routes to Santiago de Compostela, though I have not yet decided where.  My current thinking is the Camino Inglés from Ferrol to Santiago in extreme northwest Galicia, though I may opt for the Camino Portuguése from Tui in southern Galicia to Santiago, or perhaps I may simply revisit one or another section of the Camino Francés. The hospitalero assignment came only a few days more than 2 weeks before my duties begin, and I leave for Madrid in a bit more than a week, so I have to make lots of arrangements in a hurry! In the meantime, I may not have time to write much until late June.

If you should be on the Camino Francés through Santo Domingo in the last half of May, please stop by at least to say hello, if not to spend the night.


29 April, 2012

Piety: Places and Things

Conques, Pilgrimage Destination and burial site of the relics of St. Foi.
Copyright EOP


Trying to walk longish distances daily in the esthetically depressing slurbs of northern Virginia, for diversion I have taken to listening to podcasts while walking. The number and variety of such audio materials presently available is truly awesome, and more than a few of them are of excellent quality. In addition to doing 30-40 minutes of Spanish language review with "Coffee Break Spanish," and its advanced cousin "Show Time Spanish," I became enamored of the "History of Rome" series done by a young man who, sadly for those of us addicted to his telling of the chronicle of the Roman Empire, recently announced he is discontinuing that engrossing history from earliest times to about 500 A.D. His termination has prompted a search for other podcasts, and one I found awhile ago and started listening to in earnest a couple of weeks ago is particularly fascinating for the vast array of topics it covers, "In Our Time With Melvyn Bragg," distributed by the BBC which broadcasts the programme weekly on BBC4. (all of the podcasts noted above are available gratis and can be downloaded on iPods and related devices from the iTunes store).

Today I listened to a broadcast of "In Our Time" from 12 February with the Netherlandish savant Erasmus as the topic. Two professors of church history, one from Cambridge and another from Oxford joined the Warburg Institute librarian and Melvyn Bragg the interviewer for an overview of the life, work and influences of the great humanist. I knew that Erasmus was an opponent of pilgrimage, suggesting that the blessings bought to Christians by visiting distant shrines like Rome or Santiago de Compostela could be as readily found in the local parish church if only the piety of the believer was turned inward. In the introduction, the commentator (I believe it was by Eamon Duffy of Cambridge University) stated that in the medieval era piety was firmly rooted in places and things, a statement that gave me a shock of realization. After struggling with the question of why pilgrimages are made, I realized that is a good explanation of why pilgrimage was so central to Christianity in the late Middle Ages. Places, sites of important events including burials, and things, relics such as the bones of saints interred or brought to those places, were venerated. Only by visiting the places, it was believed, could one be blessed. The decline of pilgrimage, in its turn, was in some measure a consequence of the humanist ideals espoused by Erasmus and forcefully injected into the Reformation churches following Luther. Needless to say it is time to do some deeper investigation of Erasmus, humanism and pilgrimage.

12 April, 2012

Exhibitions


Fuji Seen Through the Mannen Bridge at Fukagawa
Hokusai "36 Views of Mt. Fuji"
Wikimedia Commons

As often happens in Spring, there are numerous special exhibitions at various art, science, and history museums, and for my interests this Spring brings a surfeit. Among the many choices, there are three shows closely related to pilgrimage topics. In Washington, DC a 'Japan Spring' is being celebrated, the centenary of the planting of the cherry trees around the Tidal Basin, and there are must see exhibits in two museums on the Mall for anyone who is a lover of things Japanese or with an interest in Japanese pilgrimages. At the Freer-Sackler there is a display of Hokusai's "36 Views of Mt. Fuji", original strikings of the famous colored woodblock pints of Mt. Fuji, itself a pre-eminent pilgrimage destination, and several of the scenes are along the Kansai pilgrimage route, the oldest and most popular in Japan visiting the 33 temples in the region southwest of Tokyo.

Hokusai's images of Mt. Fuji, including the great wave, probably the best known of all Japanese images, are often seen and reproduced. Not so the scrolls containing images of Japanese nature included in the National Gallery of Art's exhibit of bird and flower paintings by Itō Jakuchū.  These images, owned by the Japanese Imperial Household Agency, are rarely seen but are truly stunning. In a normal year they are on public view for a single day, and pilgrimages are organized to view them on that date. The National Gallery exhibit is only a month long and will close 29 April, so they are worth a rush visit.

The exhibit I would most like to see is at the British Museum in London, Hajj: Journey to the Heart of Islam. Alas, it is unlikely I will be in London between now and Sunday, and in any case all advance tickets are sold out. After reading a review of the exhibit in the most recent issue of the New York Review of Books, I almost booked a trip to London in order to see an extensive collection of materials on the world's largest pilgrimage. I shall have to be content reading the catalogue of the exhibit.

05 April, 2012

Cathedrals, Basilicas and Large Churches

Roman Catholic Cathedral, Orlando, FL 
©eop

Having just returned from Orlando, Fl where I attended the annual Gathering of American Pilgrims on the Camino, a group devoted to travel on, study of and promotion of the Camino de Santiago in Europe,  I decided it was time to do a posting and to try to adhere to a more regular schedule of postings. Today's posting is a follow-up to a topic discussed informally at the meeting.

There is a tendency in the United States, and perhaps elsewhere, to call any large church a cathedral. Indeed, driving between Lake Wales and Tampa on Sunday I saw the Sunshine Cathedral which appeared from the road to be two double-wide trailers attached on their long sides. Just outside Seattle there is a large church in Redmond that calls itself Washington Cathedral. The Crystal Cathedral in Orange County, California has been in the news, for the protestant congregation it served recently went bankrupt, and the building, designed by a famous architect and well-known from television broadcasts of its holiday entertainments, has been sold to the local Roman Catholic diocese. That sale may render the Crystal Cathedral an actual cathedral in a rigorous and traditional usage of the term, for the diocese may choose to relocate the seat of its bishop to the building. Until now, however,  the name Crystal Cathedral has simply meant a large protestant church building serving a single congregation and not the administrative center of a diocese.

It is useful to look a little further at the usage of the term cathedral and a related kind of church, the basilica.

1. Cathedrals. In the Roman Catholic tradition, and in those protestant denominations whose governance traditions are episcopal, including the Anglican (in the US the Episcopal) and the northern European Lutheran churches, a cathedral is the seat of the bishop or archbishop responsible for a diocese and is a center of church governance. The term cathedral derives from the latin cathedra or chair. An actual chair for the bishop or archbishop near the altar is almost always a feature, and from that chair important declarations about church matters are issued, ex cathedra. Generally there is a single church building in a diocese serving as a cathedral, though there are a few notable exceptions like the diocese of Calahorra in Spain (La Rioja) where the co-cathedrals of Calahorra, Logroño and Santo Domingo de la Calzada (the latter two familiar to pilgrims on the Camino de Santiago) share the task. The cathedral may not be a large or impressive building, indeed the Roman Catholic cathedral in Orlando shown above and the Anglican cathedral in Vancouver, BC are fairly modest buildings, smaller than some of the parish churches in their respective dioceses.

In some cases older buildings no longer serving as centers of church governance retain the name cathedral, though there are only a handful of examples. A few older cathedral buildings have been abandoned in favor of newer ones, but tradition keeps the name cathedral attached to the antique structure. In parts of Europe where Roman Catholicism was replaced by Calvinism during the Reformation, including Scotland and parts of Switzerland, some church buildings once Roman Catholic cathedrals no longer have a church governance function in that congregationalist tradition, but the churches retain the name cathedral.

The term, cathedral, in a rigorous usage, is derived from the role of the building in church governance. It has no architectural meaning, for any style or size of building can serve as a cathedral.

2. Basilicas. Perhaps the most famous church in Christianity, St. Peter's in Rome is not a cathedral, but it is a basilica. The cathedral of Rome, where the Pope, who is also the bishop of Rome, has his seat, is St. John in Lateran (San Giovanni Laterano) which in addition to being a cathedral is also a papal basilica. In other words a church can be both a cathedral and basilica, though many are one but not the other. Originally a basilica was a type of Roman building, rectangular in ground plan, used for pre-Christian religious and civic purposes. As the Roman Empire was converted to Christianity, a number of those buildings became churches. In Rome itself and in some other cities of the empire a few of those ancient basilicas still exist and retain a religious function almost 2,000 years on. A pilgrim or tourist in Rome can visit several ancient churches that are architecturally basilicas. In addition some more modern churches, for example San Paulo fuori la Mura in Rome, said to house the remains of St. Paul, are designed in the Roman style of basilicas.

Over history, the original definition of the term basilica based on architecture has been expanded as the Roman Catholic tradition has granted the name basilica to churches with other ground plans. Church buildings built on a cruciform ground plan introduced later in the evolution of Christianity and elaborated first in the Romanesque and later in the Gothic styles of architecture are not, sense strictu, basilicas for they deviate from the Roman rectangularity. However at some stage the term basilica came to be applied to large and important churches regardless of architecture, often in dioceses where there was also a cathedral. Most basilicas were centers of intense devotion, many housing relics, and pilgrimage destinations.

A few basilicas are are also cathedrals or co-cathedrals, as for example the basilica of St. Mary in Minnesota. Others, for example the shrine church at Lourdes or the Shrine of the Immaculate Conception in Washington, DC, are simply basilicas with no governance function for their local diocese. Finally, some are Papal Basilicas with a  special altar where no mass may be conducted without permission of the Pope. In such cases the architectural design is of little relevance, but most basilicas are large churches.

The Eastern Orthodox traditions have a slightly different set of definitions for cathedral, though a church governance function remains paramount. The term basilica, on the other hand, has not gone beyond the Roman Catholic tradition as far as I can determine. Various Protestant groups, especially those of recent vintage like the group that established the Washington Cathedral near Seattle or the Crystal Cathedral, have rather carelessly used the term cathedral to simply mean a large church building serving a single congregation. For those wishing more information, the Wikipedia entries on the various topics of cathedral, basilica and church governance are useful.

Finally, in a discussion of Cathedral of St. James, in Seattle, I said I was not aware of any other cathedral in the United States named for and dedicated to Santiago (St. James). The next day driving through downtown Orlando, I discovered our meeting was held in a diocese whose cathedral is named for the patron Saint of Spain and to whose shrine in Galicia pilgrims on the Camino de Santiago travel!

19 March, 2012

Music from the Codex las Huelgas

Burgos Cathedral Towers, chalk drawing ©eop


Late in 2011 Anonymous 4 issued its second CD of Camino related music, Secret Voices: Music from Las Huelgas c. 1300 (Harmonia Mundi USA HMU 807510). It is not my favorite among their recordings, and its review in BBC Music was nuanced and not entirely positive, but for anyone with an interest in the music of the Camino at the time of its apogee, the CD is a must have.

Several of the few great compilations of medieval and early renaissance music, collections crucial to our understanding of European musical culture in the high Middle Ages, have direct links to the Camino Santiago de Compostela and the pilgrimage to the shrine of St. James. Two of those collections were compiled for religious institutions adjacent and important to the Camino. One is, of course, the Codex Calixtinus usually held as a treasure in the archive of the Cathedral of Santiago de Compostela. (Following its theft last year, its current whereabouts are unknown as far as I can determine.) Early in its career with its original personnel, Anonymous 4, the American female quartet specializing in medieval and renaissance vocal music, recorded a wonderful CD Miracles of Sant’Iago: Music from the Codex Calixtinus (Harmonia Mundi USA).

The second compilation of medieval liturgical music is the Codex las Huelgas assembled at the Convent (Monasterio) of the Huelgas, a lovely set of buildings the Camino Frances passes on its way out of Burgos. The Codex has provided material for numerous recordings, many with titles suggesting a link to the Camino and some quite good.  Small samples of the riches of the Codex are readily available, and mixed gender choirs and even all male groups have recorded some of the materials, though the convent was female and evidence suggests that at least some of the musical compositions in the Codex were written for female voices, perhaps, a rarity of the era, even written by women. It is thus a great pleasure to hear a female group of unparalleled technique and expertise in the music of the period record parts of the Codex in the voices the music was written for. Several of the selections on the CD are not included on any other recording I am aware of.

I am not working as their agent, but Ariama, an on-line supplier of  physical CDs as well as mp3 and flac downloads, currently has the new album on sale in all three formats. Ariama's website  allows one to listen online to samples of many of the albums it has for sale (like the record stores of my childhood with listening booths!), including both of those noted above.  

25 January, 2012

Loss of a Great Voice

Capital, Monasterio de Pedralbes, Barcelona
©EOP

For those of us who love the music of medieval and renaissance Europe, and especially that of Spain during the great age of pilgrimage to Santiago, November 2011 was a particularly sad month, for it witnessed the passing of a magnificent talent, the Catalan soprano Montserrat Figueras. With crystalline tone and great emotional intensity, Figuras brought to life the songs, and particularly the religious music, the lullabies and the laments, that were familiar to pilgrims on the route to Santiago in its great apex of the 15th and 16th centuries. In concert with her husband the inimitable master of early music Jordi Savall, her son and daughter and their several choral and instrumental groups including Hespèrion (later renamed Hespèrion XXI) and Capella Reial de Catalunya, Figueras performed and recorded some of the most haunting music of Spain's "Golden Age" (as I write I am listening to a gripping recording of Tomas Luis de Victoria's "Cantica Beatae Virginis" by those groups with Figueras as featured soloist). A multifaceted talent, she was also at home performing music by contemporary masters like the Estonian Aarvo Pärt. It will always be a regret that while I have had the great privilege of hearing her husband and her daughter Arianna Saval perform in concerts, I never had an opportunity to hear Montserrat Figueras live. 

Many of the world's major newspapers including the New York Times the Guardian and El Pais printed obituaries after her death. 

Her funeral was held in one of the most beautiful and beloved sites in Barcelona, the 
monastery of Pedralbes. 

While we no longer are able to hear her in concert, Figueras has left us with an extensive recorded archive in which she sang some of the most beautiful music ever written in Europe and around the Mediterranean Basin, and for that we must be thankful indeed.. 

10 January, 2012

Music

San Juan de Ortega, Burgos, Spain,  September 2011
©eop

Sitting in the family waiting area of Sibley Hospital nervously awaiting the surgeon's report (thankfully for a fairly minor procedure) on my wife, it seems a good time to get back on track and pen a few words. I had intended to have a completed report on my September-October walk on the Camino Frances posted by now, but events, including some family medical issues and the holiday season, have made that impossible. The season was not without its pleasures, not least two performances by the Folger Consort. In December they collaborated with Piffaro (the Philadelphia based wind band of which I admit to being something of a groupie) and vocal soloists to present a wonderful concert of renaissance era Spanish Christmas music, "O Magnum Mysterium." Last Saturday we went to the (earthquake damaged and partially shrouded) Washington National Cathedral to hear the instrumental musicians of the Consort and the ethereal voices of Anonymous 4 perform music by Hildegard of Bingen and various 12th century French composers, a stunning experience hearing the music in the type of venue for which it was composed, played and sung by true masters of early music. At some date in the not too distant future, I would love to hear live performances of some of the instrumental and vocal music associated with the Camino de Santiago played and sung by the Consort and Anonymous 4. Perhaps they can be persuaded to give such a concert. There is a fantastic CD of music from the Codex Calixtinus by Anonymous 4, but despite the wonders of modern audio recording, a live performance is still special.

I must get back to surveying Camino music as several good recordings have recently come to my attention. This is being written a few days after the last music store in Washington, DC carrying classical CDs announced it is closing. No more browsing, the serendipitous source of many CDs in my collection. Scrolling through lists on websites is just not the same. On-line one can listen to snippets of the recordings, recalling the record store booths of my childhood where one could sample records, but reading the album notes while holding the disc has been my avenue of serendipitous discovery. At various music websites, it is easy to find recordings advertised and promoted by major labels, but much recorded early music, including that linked to pilgrimage, is on small or private labels with budgets barely large enough to cover production costs. Only with a little luck and reports from a network of others who share the arcane taste for early music can one find these titles.

With the holidays over and medical issues under control, I hope, the usually grim weather of winter is a good time to get back to writing about pilgrimage issues, so I plan to write some additional postings in the next few weeks. At least I have managed to go through many of the 2,000+ photographs from my autumn pilgrimage and do a bit of editing, so I might even post a photo blog on Flicker or similar.

Meanwhile, what is the fate of the purloined Codex Calixtinus? While I was on the Camino no one seemed to know if it had been located and returned to the Cathedral archive, and many peregrinos were unaware of the theft. Since returning I have not had the opportunity to do research on the topic, another task for the next few weeks.

03 December, 2011

"The Way" and My Camino in 2011

Azuelos, house in El Burgo Ranero, 2011
©eop

Yesterday I finally saw "The Way" with Martin Sheen, and it reminded me that I have not posted my promised post-Camino comments on this blog, so I shall use the movie as an introduction to my comments about the Camino in 2011. "The Way" was released in the US while I was still on the Camino, and catching somewhat obscure movies (anything that is not a Maul Movie--any film not made for 14-year old boys) in the slurbs of Northern Virginia, especially films more than a few weeks beyond their theatrical release date, can be difficult. Fortunately the local quasi-art house theatre (Cinema Arts Fairfax) opened it yesterday, and my wife and I were first in line to see it at its first show there.

The film was good entertainment, although like almost all movies a little implausible in places (the bag in the river, the gitano festival in Burgos, ...) and with at times a seriously deranged geography. It was redeemed by good acting, a good story line, attractive scenery and a number of details about walking the Camino that certainly rang true. The quartet of characters more or less randomly thrown together matched the demography I encountered with lots of Irish, Dutch, and Canadian pilgrims and rather few from the United States. I would have added a Scandinavian, French or German to the mix, but movies have neither the screen time nor the budget to do everything that might be interesting. Some commentators have objected to the brisk pace at which Sheen's character walked the Camino, but almost his age and probably in worse physical condition, I managed to walk from Pamplona in 32 days with few problems beyond the usual sore muscles. The motivations of those walking the Camino were cleverly addressed with the recognition that stated objectives and actual motivations are often not coincidental. The film is an entertaining and thought provoking two hours viewing for anyone who has walked or is contemplating a walk on the Camino Frances, and I plan to buy the DVD when it becomes available in order to show it to friends and to see it again.

In its penultimate act, "The Way" includes some scenes at the cathedral that are not presently possible including entry through the holy door, not until the next Holy Year, and a good view of Master Mateo's Portico of Glory. To see that magnificent sculptural assemblage in its original form was one of my motivations, knowing far more about it now than when I walked the Camino in 1998 and 2001. Alas, when I finished my Camino in October, the Portico was mostly covered with scaffolding and only small parts were visible as restoration work is in progress. Placing one's hand on the statue is not presently allowed, and I heard rumor that ancient tradition has been permanently halted due to damage to the carving. Ironically, when I was in London a year ago I made a special trip to the Victoria and Albert to view the cast of the Portico in that museum's famed plaster cast collection, but the exhibit hall was also closed for renovation, so for now I have to be content with pictures in books.

I ended my Camino with a bus trip to Fisterra (Finisterre) but did not go to Muxia. The scenes in "The Way" made me wish I had, for I had already been to the end of the earth in 2001 at the end of my Camino that year. A reason to make yet another pilgrimage!

Over the next several weeks I plan to post several additional brief commentaries about the Camino and my 2011 walk. Keep tuned!

09 November, 2011

Environment and Pilgrimage

Santiago Matamoros, detail of retablo, Iglesia Santiago el Burgo, Zamora, Spain
©eop

The November 5th 2011issue of the weekly news magazine the Economist has a brief article "Pilgrimages: Hot Steps. Pilgrimages are booming. Time to make them less destructive" (p. 71), worthwhile reading and food for thought for anyone who feels that perhaps the pilgrimage to Santiago is becoming too popular. There are are environmental costs to pilgrimage, and with a world population now said to be 7 billion, there are huge numbers of potential pilgrims to all of the major (and minor) pilgrimage destinations. Perhaps it is time to asses the environmental costs and do something to mitigate them. Otherwise "pilgrims risk destroying the destinations they love."

10 October, 2011

Santiago to Fisterra

A brief posting for in an hour I am meeting a fellow peregrino for a last beer. He returns home tonight, and tomorrow I begin my way back to Madrid, via Zamora, Avila, and Salamanca to return to the real world next week.

Today was the obligatory bus trip to "fin del mundo." it was a glorious day for the long bus rides. Despite being mid-October, it looks and feels like beach weather. School is in session, and vacation season has ended, so the beautiful bits of beach between Noia and Fisterra were almost empty. A little hazy, it was still a nearly perfect day to walk to the lighthouse and look over the edge of the earth!

Fisterra itself was bustling with numerous peregrinos who made the trip by bus and many more who walked. Two weeks ago I debated walking, but after the climb to O Cebreiro, I decided that would be stretching my luck and my leg muscles too far. I am glad I took the bus and walked the final kms to the faro.

There will be no more postings until I return to the US.

08 October, 2011

Santiago!

Arrived early this afternoon in Santiago, and what a complicated set of feelings! Happy to have achieved the goal; glad I do not have to face any more 30 + km days anytime soon; relieved my knees will not need to make any steep descents for awhile; sad that I am unlikely to ever again encounter most of the fascinating and wonderful people who have walked on my schedule and been albergue, meal, and trail companions. Those who have never walked the Camino will never know the magnificence of the experience! The walking can be painful and occasionally difficult, but oh the rewards. It will take many weeks to sort my photos, notes and feelings to make full sense of the experience, but all complaints to the contrary, the rewards far exceed the time and effort expended.

An unexpected reward late this afternoon--in addition to seeing many of my Camino companions for a final time--was the swinging of the botafumier at the 6 pm mass. This is the second time my Camino has ended with that awesome display, a fitting coda to a fantastic month.

07 October, 2011

Arca (O Pino)--Turgrinos

Almost at the end of a dry Camino, not a drop of rain in 31 days. The heat in the first two weeks was difficult, but rain is worse so all who have been on my schedule should be thankful. Today was a comfortable day for walking, and tomorrow promises to be a fine day for the final 20 km into Santiago.

This walk I have been watching turgrinos. The turgrino phenomenon is both fascinating and annoying. Prior to starting, I mostly thought of those who walk a week ot two, using the albergues as inexpensive housing while vacationing. There are many who do so east of Burgos, but not many on the meseta. Having no intention of walking the whole Camino, even in installments as many Europeans do, they crowd the trail and use albergue beds, creating inconvenuences for those intending to go the distance as pilgrims.

In the final 100 km there is a quite different kind of turgrino. These "pilgrims" come in herds off tour busses. The bus driver deposits them at a bar with instructiona to get a sello. They then walk three to five easy km to another bar where they get a second sello in their credencials, climb back on the bus and are carried to a private albergue or hostal for the night. They walk perhaps 20 km but have a credencial allowing them to "earn" a Compostela. Yesterday I counted six such groups, including one where all of the turgrinos wore yellow scaeves.

04 October, 2011

Portomarin

The rumors are true. A very large number of additional pilgrims, from listening most of them from Spain, join at Sarria in order to walk the 100 km required for the Compostela. Already crowded in tis exceptionally warm autumn, the Camino is almost like a one-way city street. Never today was I out of earshot of chattering peregrinos, and it was rare when no one was nearby. I fear that may be the rule all the remaining four days.

Lots of rather rude people on the path including the Frenchman playing a "boom box" with some of the most vulgar American rap "music" one can imagine. An Irish woman told him he was seriously offending English speakers, but he just shrugged and went on, blasting the noise as he moved forward. Cell phones are ubiquitous along with banal "I am on the Camino" calls to people back home. Why one needs to do this while walking, I will never know. Finally, and most distressingly, the shedding of trash is truly horrific with used tissues in almost every semi-hidden place. Perhaps it is time to institute standards of conduct for peregrinos on the Camino.

02 October, 2011

Triacastela

Amazing how quickly a week passes when walking the Camino! That is especially true with three difficult days in a row: 1. The steep downhill from Foncebadon to Molinaseca; 2. The long slog through Ponferrada to Villafranca del Bierzo; and 3. The exhilirating but exhausting climb to O Cebreiro. Those are behind me, and now all that remains is the final week through Galicia into Santiago.

It was distressing to se what a tourist trap O Cebreiro has become. Trinket sellers and overpriced food places (4 Euros for a breakfast consisting of a cafe con leche and 2 piece of toast) dominate, and three tour busses with guides speaking English arrived when I was having a beer. It is a lovely village with my favorite church on the Camino. Sadly, it cannot be reserved just for peregrinos.

The weather remains warm to outright hot as it is this afternoon. The Camino remains crowded with albergues full or nearly so. There seems always to be a peregrino or two in sight ahead, and a turn shows one just behind. The mixture of people walking is fascinatibg. Geographically the Spanish, French, and others from the Continent are most numerous, and half the population of Ireland seem to be walking, but the relative absence of those from the US is puzzling.
Canadians are numerous, I have met a dozen or more from BC and even a half dozen from New Brunswick. Many French-Canadians are also on the route. In contrast I have met fewer than a dozen from the US since leaving Pamplona. A great thesis topic would be the mix of nationalities on the Camino.