02 July, 2010

Santiago in Philadelphia


Fairmount Waterworks, Philadelphia Museum in back, Philadelphia, PA, 1998
© EOP

Earlier this week I spent several days in Philadelphia, a city well-endowed with things to see and do, W. C. Fields notwithstanding. In the midst of a heatwave, the Philadelphia Museum was a cool respite from the outdoors. The large exhibit of medieval materials, most from France but with a few representative pieces from elsewhere in Europe, was new to me and well worth the visit.Included in the medieval collection is a Romanesque arched Portal from the Abbey Church of Saint-Laurent, France a 12th century building near Cosne-Cours-sur-Loire, a pilgrimage church on the Chemin St.Jacques. It is one of many churches and other facilities along the Chemin influenced by the Benedictines of Cluny. The arched doorway leads to a small cloister with a Spanish fountain from Monastery of Saint-Michel-de-Cuxa in Catalunya, an exhibit that brings back many memories of France and Spain and of the Chemin/Camino!


Tickets to view the Barnes Collection in Merion were a primary reason for the trip to Philadelphia. The collection is due to be moved to a site in central Philadelphia in a couple of years, and the current year is the last to visit the peculiar museum in its suburban splendor. Most people go to see the awe inspiring collection of French art from the impressionists through the 20th century. Scattered among the gems of that part of the collection are a number of pieces of other provenance, including some fine sculptures and paintings from Renaissance Europe. Spread in several galleries are a third life size statute of St. Roch, a painting of St. James the major in a guise largely unrecognizable to those of us familiar with Santiago Peregrino (pilgrim accouterments including staff, hat and scallop shell)  and Santiago Matamoros astride a horse, and a painting of St. Sebastian with Santiago Peregrino. I foolishly did not carry a notebook, and the museum prohibits photographs and does not offer reproductions in its shop. Any follower of Santiago able to visit the museum is advised to look for the statue near the head of the stairs on the second floor and the paintings in the galleries east of the main room on the first floor.

24 May, 2010

Final comments on Ladino Music

Normally I do not respond to comments posted on websites to which I contribute unless they raise interesting questions or discussion topics. All too often comments are posted by self-appointed experts and various other cranks and are best left in obscurity. Occasionally a comment is so out of place, so egregiously offensive, so arrogant and ignorant, that it demands a rebuttal. Such is the case with a comment made by one Ms. Judith Cohen, a contributor to the website Klezmershack. I have now had some time to do some work on the issue and feel a rebuttal is appropriate.

Ms. Cohen:
Since you have taken it upon yourself to comment on my “research,” I shall take this opportunity to reciprocate and comment on yours. It is a universally accepted research protocol to read an item with some care before publishing a criticism of it. That is hardly an onerous task when commenting on a blog posting of far less than 1,000 words. The comment you posted shows that you did not read, or at least did not understand, the heading  A BLOG INTENDED FOR PARTICIPANTS IN THE COURSE ON PILGRIMAGE OFFERED AT ALRI IN AUTUMN 2009. THE BLOG PRESENTS MATERIALS GERMANE TO THE COURSE INCLUDING SESSION OUTLINES, ILLUSTRATIVE MATTER,AND OTHER MATERIALS ENROLEES MIGHT FIND OF INTEREST” a clear statement that the blog is solely written for participants enrolled in a specific course on a specific topic. Neither have you read nor understood the initial sentence of the brief posting you so arrogantly dismiss. In that paragraph I state ‘While it is a bit remote from the specific topic of pilgrimage, in our meeting on Tuesday a question was asked about Ladino music, and I was intrigued enough to do a little research.” That statement should amply indicate to any one of normal intelligence that 1) I am not claiming to be an expert, indeed that I am a novice, an interested outsider, seeking additional information about a largely unfamiliar subject and 2) the posting is based on the research that can be done in a small amount of time.

Ladino music is remote from the course I am teaching and equally remote from my personal interests. The brief blog posting was for the benefit of students in the course (read the heading above!) who expressed an interest in the subject of Ladino music. It was neither intended as a general guide to the subject for all who might stumble upon it nor as an incitement for some self-appointed expert to expel venom. The student’s questions sparked in me a personal interest and a desire to learn a little more about Ladino music and to share my findings with members of the class I am leading. As an instructor I try to bring to the attention of my students those new and interesting ideas and topics I have encountered, especially when a student raises a question or otherwise expresses an interest in a topic. The informality of a blog eases that task and allows for the exploration of new fields and ideas outside the formal constraints of the classroom.

Contempt for novices wishing to learn a bit more about a subject is frequently expressed by “experts,” almost always either those with significant lacunae in their own knowledge or those who have a strong commitment to promoting unimportant trivialities, topics and ideas dismissed by serious scholars. The contempt arises, I suspect, out of a fear the outsider may discover the emperor indeed has no clothes. I have always found true scholars, those with genuine expertise on a topic and a passion for it, to be genial hosts when novices wish to explore.

I did not make and would never have made the patently absurd claim that Ladino music is solely that developed in Iberia during the middle ages. As anyone who has studied European culture and history or musicology is well aware, no western musical genre surviving more than a few years is static, no matter how insignificant it may be to the evolution of music or of culture overall. Even those dying genres leading to cultural dead ends degenerate enroute to their demise. The Ladino genre is more than a half-millennium old and most certainly has evolved, for better or for worse. I merely suggested its origin was in medieval Iberia, and a good place to begin an examination is to listen to recordings of that early music made by first-rate musicians. I am sure any respectable musicologist would consider listening to representative examples of its early music as a reasonable, if not the ideal, starting point for a more thorough investigation of a genre.
Shortly after beginning a search for materials on Ladino music on various websites and in several library catalogues (including, among others, the Library of Congress, Johns Hopkins University, and George Mason University’s library which is accessible to my students) I discovered, as any competent scholar doing serious research on the topic would soon discover, that Sephardic (or Sefardic) is the usual catalogue term pointing to sources of early Ladino music. At the same time that term, also used in catalogues of recordings for sale, points to more recent expressions. For an example, search the term “Ladino music” on Wikipedia, of which more below.  

If you wish to learn something about the subject of Ladino music, you would profit from a Google or Bing internet search and a search on one or more of the many university and research library catalogues available online. Entering “Ladino Music” as a search term, you will find most items linked to that term, including the ones on the first few results pages, go directly to Sephardic (various spellings) topics and primarily discuss the music of the 1492 Diaspora and its medieval precursors. In comparison, those sources give relatively few references on the evolution of the music since those early years, suggesting to an interested outsider that much of the subsequent development was inconsequential, perhaps even a trail leading to a cultural dead end. Library research using printed materials further indicated that most scholars devote their efforts to the early years. My motivation, in retrospect clearly misguided,  for including a reference to Klezmershack’s page on the topic was its inclusion of more recent examples of the genre. Very few of the other web sites I encountered provided that information, suggesting yet again that post Diaspora Ladino music is little more than a minor component of a moribund and dying folk culture, albeit one that persisted for a long time.

The statement about Savall and company is absurd; a suggestion to me that one who writes such a comment either knows very little about music and performance practice or else has a personal axe to grind. Eminent musicologists, experts in medieval, renaissance and baroque music, consider the performance practices of Savall and his collaborators to be excellent resulting in the closest possible approximations of the manner in which the music was originally performed given present day knowledge and materials. It is beyond belief that Savall and his collaborators would deviate from their rigorous adherence to authentic performance for just one type of music.

Given my reservations, all of them deriving from your comment, I have edited my original posting to withdraw the recommendation of Klezmershack and the page on Ladino music it includes. I do not have the time, the need or the interest to further evaluate that site. A careful review might prove it to be acceptable, but my reservations about its quality and scholarship, if indeed there was any, mean I cannot recommend it to my students. In its place I am inserting a link to the Wikipedia entry found when searching for “Ladino music,” a search which immediately links one to the online encyclopedia’s posting on Sefardic music. Despite the well-known issues with Wikipedia, I find it likely to be a more credible source of information on the topic than is Klezmershack.

Having already devoted too much time to finding and reading materials on Ladino music and listening to some recordings of more recent examples of the genre, I am leaving the topic, never to return. After considerable research effort and review of a substantial body of material, I find Ladino music has no relevance to my interests in music or to the development of western European or more general world culture. If a future student should ask about it, I will reply “Ladino music existed. Look it up in Wikipedia.” Aside from the wonderful performances of authentic early exemplars by Savall and his collaborators (and those of several other first-rate early music groups), my foray into learning more about Ladino music has led to the inescapable conclusions that post Diaspora Ladino music is unpleasant to listen to, at least for ears tuned to European and Asian music; it is of little consequence in the overall evolution of human cultures; and its only strong interest is to pseudo-scholars fixated on antiquarian trivia and to those obsessed with an inconsequential element of a marginal folk culture facing imminent extinction. Life is too short to pursue information about cultural dead ends and antiquarian trivialities. There are countless musical topics of greater interest and importance, perhaps early Bavarian bagpipe music or Bronze Age pan pipes in Greece. At least those genres did contribute to ongoing forms of world culture.

E. O. Pederson, Ph.D.

20 January, 2010

Yet More on Pilgrimage in Peru

Cusco, Peru
20 January 2010

A couple of posts back I wrote about a pilgrimage to a high elevation glacier in the Andes  of Peru to gather snow. Quite by coincidence, a book I brought with me to read while visiting various sites in and near Cusco, including Manchu Picchu, contains a personal story of participation in the arduous and difficult to understand (for those of us mostly familiar with European traditions) pilgrimage.

The book is Hugh Tomson, 2006. A Sacred Landscape: The Search for Ancient Peru. Woodstock and New York: The Overlook Press. ISBN 13-978-1-59020-058-2, and the description of the pilgrimage is a chapter A Parliament of Bears: Qoyllurit´i, pp. 232-271.

Qoyllurití (your guess at pronunciation is as good as mine) is celebrated every year after Trinity Sunday in June and entails a climb, at rates far faster than high altitude medicine would recommend, to a glacier over 6,000 m high about 100 km from Cusco. Thousands participate every year in rituals that combine Roman Catholic elements, and the pilgrimage is sanctioned by the church, with ones clearly very much older. If I should teach another course on pilgrimage, I most certainly will include discussion of this one. Meanwhile I recommend the Tomson book both for the chapter and more generally for its overview of archaeological and anthropological finds in Peru.

18 January, 2010

Santiago in Peru

Cusco, Peru
18 January 2010

Once again I am writing for an undefined audience, but I have been pleased to discover that both pilgrimages and my favorite saint Santiago (St. James the major) are well represented in Peru. Santiago is the patron saint of the city and region of Cusco. A statue of Santiago dominates one of the three chapels in the city´s cathedral, though in a guise I do not favor ¨Santiago Mataindios¨ a variant of the more common Santiago Matamoros.

Yesterday on a visit to the spectacular Inca site at Ollantaytambo, we discovered that the parsh church there is named for Santiago as well. When I return to the US and have a little time for investigation of the topic, I shall have more intelligent (I hope) commentary to make on the topics of pilgrimages in Peru and the role of Santiago in Peru.

14 January, 2010

Pilgrimages in Peru

Cusco, Peru
14 January 2010

I am not certain who I am writing this for as our class has ended, but having spent a couple of weeks in Peru, I have discovered yet another set of fascinating pilgrimages, Christian and non-Christian (Semi-Christian?). One, centered on dates near my birthday as it happens, involves sending pilgrims, inadequately clothed and equipped, to elevations above 6,000 meters to get sacks of snow which are then delivered to the Plaza de Armas here in Cusco. Others involve more traditional and less arduous and dangerous treks. When I return to ole virginny I must do some research and post some pictures!

06 December, 2009

Crime on the Camino

Pilgrims to Santiago de Compostela, 15th Century Woodcut


In our final session we discussed some of the problems relating to pilgrimage in the 21st century. This morning I received the following in an email from a list server for a Camino de Santiago group:

Acacio Paz, the esteemed hospitalero from Brasil who with his wife owns and runs an albergue in the French Camino has asked that the following notice (roughly translated from Spanish, and in part) be passed on:

"WARNING TO ALL; NOT EVERY CAMINO-WALKER IS A PILGRIM.
If someone registers in an albergue as Alberto Ferreira de Silva, Portugues, 41-years old ,a cook by profession and extremely likeable, the Civil Guard should be notified as once. This individual, who carries a pilgrim's credential with several stamps on it, has "struck" several albergues and institutions in the Camino and will continue to do so if not stopped. He just stole 500 Euros from the Fundacion Vivir (Foundation "To live") that had given him shelter and invited him to dinner. Because of his winning ways, and his eagerness to help out and be of use in the albergues, he becomes acquiainted with where and how items of value may be kept, and proceeds to take them.
- there have been other, similar robberies in albergues recently....."

In the heels of this message Katja, a member of these lists-serv who recently began the pilgrimage at SJPP sent the following message yesterday:


-----Original Message-----
From: Katia Wolk
Sent: Fri, Dec 4, 2009 7:37 pm
Subject: Re: [Iago] Pase adelante amigos por favor URGENTE ¡¡¡ (Pass this on, friends, it is urgent)


As coisas são mesmo complicadas...


Em Zubiri, chegamos do jantar e enquanto fomos escovar os dentes nossos casacos foram roubados de cima de nossas camas no albergue...
Infelizmente...
Beijos
Katia

which says,translated from Portuguese:
"Things are thus complicated......
In Zubiri, we returned (to the albegue) after having dinner, and as we went to brush our teeth our jackets were stolen from the top of the bunks in the albergue
Unfortunately..... "
----

If it is any consolation, this sort of thing has been going on forever. There is a book called "Picardias en el Camino en la Edad Media" (Chicaneries in the Camino in the Middle Ages) which recounts extraordinary, sometimes funny and sometimes hair-raising,
instances of this sort of thing, and worse, in the Middle Ages.
Because of the possibility that these types of activities will multiply next year (a Holy Year), the Archdiocese, the Xunta, the authorities in the various municipalities which the various routes of the Camino traverse and the Guardia Civil will tighten and more than double the security measures throughout the Camino, as well as the means of communication.
In fact, the augmented and expanded security measures in the city of Santiago will go into effect in two weeks because of the huge crowds expected there for the opening of the Holy Door.

Hugs!

Rosina

Thought some of you might find it of interest even though our course has ended.

28 November, 2009

Pilgrimage in the 21st Century

Doorway, Abbey at Roncesvalles, Navarra, Spain EOP 1998


Last session we discussed the pilgrimage to Santiago de Compostela. I forgot my power point and notes, so it was ad libbed for which I apologize.There were a few maps and other slides I think members of the course should see, so I shall begin with a brief presentation of those materials.

The bulk of the final session on 1 December will be devoted to an examination of problems related to pilgrimage in the current century. Those problems are numerous, for the ease of transportation and the rise in per capita incomes make it possible for many people to make long treks to distant shrines. The recently completed Hajj in Saudi Arabia has provided a number of examples of problems related to the gathering of huge numbers of people in a small area during a pilgrimage. There were unanticipated problems of weather as well as problems with epidemic disease and potential terrorism. In the Hajj just ended, the problems of epidemic disease were real enough, but thankfully problems of terrorism did not occur. Perhaps that was a consequence of good planning and preparation on the part of the Saudi authorities, or perhaps it was just a matter of luck.

I. Pilgrimage in the 21st Century.
A. Massive increase in the numbers of pilgrims
B. Greater ease of making the pilgrimage
1. Transportation
2. Safety
II. Pilgrimage and Tourism
III. Problems related to pilgrimage
A. Public health
B. Infrastructure
C. Terrorism
IV. Concluding comments